4.14. Tracker Battery/Electrics Box

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The following photos are of a battery box I built for a tracker based on a '79 Special II. The box is made from 16 ga. carbon steel sheet. The socket mounts are made from 1/2" NPT steel pipe. I turned the OD on a lathe to pretty them up, but it is not necessary if you do not have access to a lathe. The pipe does have a weld inside from the manufacturer that may make your rubber bushing fit a bit tight. I ran a 5/8” reamer down it to clean it up. You could file or grind the weld if necessary.

All welds on the box and frame are gas welds made with an oxy-acelylene torch. Box was made by a sheet metal shop for $25.00. I welded and ground the corners.

The entire box and mount assembly, short of the mounted welded to the frame, can be made from aluminum to save weight.

This box will house the ignition switch, light and hi-lo beam switches, horn switch and directional switch. There will be no switches mounted on the handlebars.

I'll post additional photos as the box is set up for switches and components as well as the battery mounting.


The rubber bushings are made from 3/8" ID 5/8” OD rubber hose. This particular hose was a leftover chunk of washing machine feeder. Make your rubber bushings about 9/16" long and your metal sockets 1/2" long. Note that the rear mounting pins were welded on by me. This is because I managed to cut off the original pins as I trimmed tabs and mounts from the frame, not thinking I'd use them. DO NOT cut off your rear battery box pins and use them for this box. Cut the pins to 1/2" long.

You can trim the rubber bushings to size with a razor blade, an electric carving knife or a chop saw. If you use the chop saw, cut the bushing longer than necessary, then mount the bushing on a 3/8” wood dowel so you can keep your fingers away from the blade. I found the chop saw made the most accurate rubber bushing cuts.


The forward mounting plate is welded to the frame below the rear tank mount. I welded two 5/16”-18 nuts on the back side of the holes in the plate to accept two bolts that will hold the actual mount in place. There was not enough room to use loose nuts and bolts. So bolts will either have to be lockwired or use Loctite used to secure them from vibrating out. Locking plates can be used as well.

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Note that the battery can be mounted across the back or down the center. I'll be mounting across the back to make plenty of room for other electrics, such as fuse box, volt reg, rectifier, switches, etc. The battery is an Interstate 2.6 AH 12V Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery. Battery is shown next to an unsharpened pencil to provide scale. Battery cost $18.00 locally. They can be found for a little as $8.00 on the web.

As you can see in the photos, when mounted, the box is barely visible while standing next to the bike with the seat/fender in place.


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